Rosacea is a skin disease that is accompanied by redness of the skin in the cheeks, forehead, nose, and chin. This cosmetic problem is characterized by the formation of dense blackheads formed from connective tissue. Treatment for rosacea on the face can be done at home. The use of folk remedies gives excellent results if all recommendations are followed exactly.
What is azelaic acid
The chemical formula of azelaic acid is HOOC(CH2)7COO.
It is also called carboxylic acid.
It is also formed naturally in the human body as a by-product of lipid metabolism. Azelaic acid is also found in some cereals - wheat, rye, barley. And although it is called an acid, the effect is quite weak, far from being as caustic as, for example, acetic acid.
Azelaic acid in any concentration cannot burn the surface of the skin, which makes it a safe product.
Effect of azelaines on facial skin
Let's look at the beneficial properties of this substance:
- Azelaic acid has a composition that is suitable for human skin. Therefore, it is well tolerated and does not cause allergies or addiction.
- Due to its safety, it is suitable for treating skin problems even in pregnant and lactating women.
- Antibacterial effect. As a result of its antimicrobial effects, azelaic acid can successfully treat acne and acne.
- Helps strengthen and somewhat “thicken” the top layer of skin, which results in fewer blackheads, the so-called “comedones”. The effect of azelaic acid is also such that it activates the work of skin pores, which manage to get rid of impurities and excess sebum in a timely manner. This ability is indispensable in the treatment of demadecosis.
- Helps lighten areas with pigmentation.
- Helps smooth the surface of the skin. Using this property, you can successfully get rid of uneven areas, roughness, and bumpiness.
- Relieves inflammation.
- Its use is especially effective in case of oily, problem skin. But even for dry skin, azelaic acid is not contraindicated, its effect is so soft and gentle.
- Acts against seborrhea and its manifestations.
- Helps saturate skin cells with oxygen.
In Western countries, azelaic acid is widely used as a popular remedy for the treatment of acne and hyperpigmentation of the skin.
It also treats such unpleasant diseases as melasma and chloasma. American dermatologists use it to treat rosacea, so-called “rosacea,” and demadecosis.
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Learn more about which medications contain azelaic acid.
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Rosacea - symptoms and stages of the disease
Most often the disease manifests itself on the skin of the face. The leading symptom indicating vascular damage is the presence of erythema (redness of the skin). Later, the patient develops acne and papular elements. The course of the disease can be divided into several stages:
- erythematous - dilation of capillaries and accompanying redness of the skin occurs. These disorders affect almost the entire area of facial skin, sometimes spreading to the neck and chest;
- papular - characterized by the appearance of first single, and then quite abundant red spherical nodules;
- pustular - acne occurs, hypertrophy of the sebaceous glands develops;
- nodal stage - rhinophyma appears - the growth of connective tissue of the skin of the nose, the formation of tuberous, lobular nodes on its surface.
Application in cosmetology
Against acne and demodicosis
Known firsthand to many, juvenile acne, or “acne,” appears in adolescence, and gradually disappears by itself by about 30 years.
But from 15 to 30 years old you don’t want to walk around with acne on your face, so it’s quite possible to use azelaic acid to get rid of the scourge.
Acne in adolescence appears due to the skin's tendency to increase the production of sebum, due to the activity of the sebaceous glands. They become clogged, unable to bring grease, dust and dirt to the surface. The main culprit of this harmful process is raging sex hormones.
Azelaic acid can calm them down, and at the same time cleanse the skin, ridding it of excess sebum.
The result of the treatment is quite stable and long-lasting. Within two weeks to a month, people notice an improvement in their skin condition, and a significant one. But in order to consolidate the result , you must use the product for at least two months.
In particularly severe cases of acne and demadecosis, they are treated for about six months. These deadlines must be maintained to prevent relapses of the disease.
How does hydrogen peroxide help with acne on the face?
Rosacea and pigmentation
So-called “acne rosacea” occurs in humans as a result of disorders of the digestive system, vascular problems, intestinal pathology, and endocrine disruptions. Some scientists suggest that rosacea is an infectious disease, and a contagious one at that. However, this assumption has not yet been scientifically proven.
Several stages of rosacea:
- Prerosacea. At the very beginning of the disease, you may notice some redness of the skin. Moreover, if at first it is barely noticeable, then over time the intensity of the redness only increases. In addition to redness, there is a feeling of warmth, even heat, in the area of affected skin tissue.
- Vascular. At the second stage of development of the disease, small vessels burst, as a result of which the affected skin area becomes even more intensely colored.
- Inflammatory. The disease is already progressing significantly and “conquering” more and more spaces on the skin.
- Late. At this stage, the face is already completely disfigured.
A cream with 20% azelaic acid content successfully treats rosacea at any stage. But of course, it is better to start getting rid of the disease at the earliest stages.
As for hyperpigmentation, a 20% cream with azelaic acid successfully and permanently lightens dark areas of the skin and stops their further spread.
Learn how to do a buccal facial massage yourself.
Peeling
The second name of the procedure: Hollywood peeling. Its use is popular in all beauty salons around the world, since it is universal and suitable even for those with the most sensitive skin. In what cases is azelaine peeling especially useful:
- For rosacea.
- For rosacea.
- For melasma.
- To smooth out small wrinkles.
- For hyperpigmentation to remove the top layer of skin. In this case, after the procedure, the pigmented areas will become lighter, and in general the skin will become more evenly colored.
- For folliculitis.
A peeling session usually lasts 40 minutes. The average course is 6-10 weekly sessions.
To prolong youth, cosmetologists most often use Botox or hyaluronic acid, which is better, reviews here.
The result of peeling with azelaic acid
Those who dream of soft, smooth skin without problems and roughness should try the effects of azelaine peeling for themselves.
Causes
Modern medicine does not allow us to accurately indicate the cause of the disease. It is generally accepted that the main factor in the development of rosacea is a deterioration in the tone of arterioles (small superficial vessels). This can be caused by both external and internal reasons.
External factors influencing the development of the disease include the following:
- alcohol consumption;
- eating spicy foods and spices;
- chemical peels;
- skincare cosmetics containing aggressive ingredients;
- stress;
- excessive physical activity;
- taking certain medications (for example, topical corticosteroids);
- insolation and exposure to high temperatures (frequent visits to baths, saunas, work in conditions of elevated temperatures).
When choosing a treatment regimen for rosacea on the face, it is imperative to determine the factor that provoked the disease.
Internal causes of the disease include diseases of the following systems:
- Gastrointestinal tract;
- endocrine system;
- immune system;
- blood (clotting disorder);
- skin (mites and infections).
The role of heredity in the development of rosacea cannot be ruled out. In this case, the nature of the disease is directly related to the structural features of blood vessels and the functioning of the hematopoietic system.
Cost in pharmacies
Azelaic acid is sold in pharmacies at a low price.
It has the form of a white fine powder.
It is poorly soluble in water, well soluble in alcohol and alcohol-containing liquids, moderately soluble in fats and oils.
However, perhaps the best solution would be to buy an already prepared product. After all, now on sale you can find a product with azelaic acid of any brand and any price category. It is best, especially if the skin is oily and prone to rashes, to use tonics with a mattifying effect, special serums and creams with azelaic acid. It is good if the product you purchase combines azelaic acid with glycolic and salicylic acid.
The cost of the product, depending on the brand of cream, manufacturer and volume of the tube, varies from 400 rubles to 1500 per package. Each skin type requires strictly specific care. From our article you will learn how to choose a cream for dry skin.
Precautions and contraindications for the use of cosmetics
In high concentrations, azelaic acid can cause irritation and redness of the skin. That is why it is better to buy a ready-made remedy than to take risks with preparing a homemade remedy. Indeed, in the latter case there is a risk of missing the acid concentration. Most often in cosmetic preparations the content of azelaic acid in the total volume is 20%.
When discussing the role of a cosmetologist in the management of patients with various skin diseases, it is necessary first of all to answer the question, do dermatological patients need cosmetological care in principle, or is it a kind of imposition of an additional service? Rosacea is a fairly common disease that worries people of working age, leading to disturbances in psychosocial adaptation (mainly due to a cosmetic defect) - a classic example for such an analysis. 1. INTRODUCTION
Despite the incompletely understood etiology and pathogenesis of the disease, several fairly effective methods for treating rosacea have been developed in dermatology (use of azelaic acid, isotretinoin, antibiotic therapy, etc.), but none of them leads to a complete cure, but only makes it possible to keep the disease at bay. under control. In addition, in some cases, the effectiveness of using the same method to treat the same patient decreases over time, and the doctor has to resort to new methods. However, relapses can occur quite often. Thus, after successful use of antibiotic therapy, relapse occurs within a few days after discontinuation of the drug in 25% of cases, and in 60% of cases within 6 months after discontinuation [1]. Constant use of antibacterial drugs has limitations due to the possibility of developing side effects. Modern cosmetological methods in such cases sometimes allow one to obtain a pronounced positive result. In connection with the above, improving methods of treating rosacea, including cosmetological care, currently seems quite relevant.
2 WHO SHOULD TREAT A PATIENT WITH ROSACEA?
Considering that rosacea is a skin disease, and not a variant of the norm, it should be treated by a dermatovenerologist, preferably one who also knows modern cosmetological methods. From our point of view, it is precisely such specialists who have a sufficient amount of knowledge and skills to optimize the therapy of dermatoses accompanied by the development of significant cosmetic defects.
Unfortunately, doctors who constantly work in cosmetology clinics, due to the specifics of their activities, often do not have the necessary experience in working with inflammatory dermatoses. Considering the above, we can list cases when a cosmetologist is obliged to refer a patient with rosacea to a dermatologist:
- if a cosmetologist does not have the qualifications of a dermatologist;
- if the cosmetologist has no experience working with rosacea;
- if the patient turned to a cosmetologist by chance;
- if the patient has limited financial resources and the specialist does not know “economical” methods of treating rosacea.
3 WHEN ARE COSMETOLOGICAL METHODS OF INFLUENCE IN THE FORM OF MONOTHERAPY OR AS A COMPONENT OF COMPLEX TREATMENT SPECIFICALLY INDICATED?
Cosmetological methods of influence are indicated in the following cases:
- at the initial stage of the disease, when the problem can be dealt with by prescribing adequate skin care;
- in case of intolerance or contraindications to the use of pharmacological drugs;
- with a pronounced cosmetic defect;
- with accompanying age-related skin changes;
- with skin atrophy caused by the use of corticosteroid drugs;
- with the patient’s expressed motivation to use cosmetic methods of influence.
The criterion for the appropriateness of using cosmetic procedures and medications is their effectiveness in a given particular case. Of great importance is also the personal experience and professional flair of the cosmetologist, his ability to patiently work with the patient, explaining to him the features of the course of the disease, exerting a positive psychological influence on the patient.
4 ALGORITHM FOR MANAGING PATIENTS WITH ROSACEA BY A COSMETOLOGIST
A. Identification of cause-and-effect relationships between the disease and the patient’s lifestyle and habits. Selection of restrictions that are significant for the patient's condition
In order to prevent exacerbations, patients with rosacea are recommended to follow a number of rules that may affect their mood and quality of life (do not use baths and saunas, do not sunbathe, do not drink alcohol, do not smoke, do not drink coffee, do not eat cheese, spices, etc.). d.). Too strict restrictions can lead to the fact that some patients will simply ignore the specialist’s recommendations, while others will become too suspicious, immersed in their condition, and consider themselves seriously ill. Neither one nor the other will benefit them and will not contribute to the formation of a healthy life position. It is important not just to give the patient a list of restrictions, but to discuss with him the features of his lifestyle and preferences. It is necessary to find out which of the provoking factors is most important in his case, as well as how difficult it will be for him to give up this or that habit, and, taking into account the information received, develop a plan for changing his lifestyle.
B. Recommendations for proper regular skin care
Proper skin care can not only prevent and reduce the severity of exacerbations, but in some cases stop the exacerbation without the use of any additional treatment methods.
1. Preparations for cleansing. Cleansing is very important for normal and problem skin, as it affects the barrier function of the skin, which largely determines the nature of various dermatoses. Rosacea can develop in normal, dry, oily or combination skin. Therefore, cleansing preparations and lotions must be selected individually, in accordance with the condition and type of skin. For dry skin, it is recommended to use gentle cleansers with anti-inflammatory and restorative plant extracts. It is important that lathering substances have a high degree of purification and do not cause skin irritation. For oily skin and in the presence of papulopustular elements, products with a drying, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effect are used. For dehydration, peeling, and also with a large number of comedones, cleansers with fruit acids and sorbitol are effective, which gently dissolve impurities and exfoliate only the surface layer of horny scales, without drying out the skin or stimulating increased keratinization.
For combination skin, alternating softer and drying products is optimal.
2.Lotions. After washing, any skin should be wiped with lotion in order to remove any remaining cleanser, tone the skin, and prevent tightness that occurs from using tap water. During periods of irritation and increased sensitivity of the skin, as well as after peelings and sunburn, non-alcohol based lotions with extracts of medicinal plants or herbal decoctions with an anti-inflammatory effect are used. If rosacea develops against the background of skin with open and closed comedones, lotions with absorbable and lipolytic effects containing fruit acids, arnica, chamomile, and witch hazel extracts are used. Such lotions dissolve closed comedones, regulate sebum secretion, soothe the skin and reduce inflammation. For oily skin and itching, it is advisable to periodically use alcohol lotions with extracts of mint, witch hazel, chamomile, etc.
3. Creams. A cream for regular skin care for a patient with rosacea must simultaneously have several properties :
- contract capillaries;
- prevent skin irritation and redness;
- moisturize, restore and provide complete skin care.
As active ingredients, such creams contain vitamins K, A and C, extracts of gingko biloba, primrose, green tea, ginger, cornflower, sweet clover, and omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acid.
The complex composition of the most successful drugs allows you to reduce redness and irritation of the skin, reduce dilated capillaries, moisturize the skin and restore the water-lipid mantle. In case of severe hyperkeratosis and the presence of papulopustular elements, a cream with vitamins A and C is additionally used in combination with fruit acids and salicylic acid. For concomitant seborrheic dermatitis and skin hypersensitivity, creams with lactoferrin and lactoperoxidase or a probiotic complex are recommended. Such creams have mild antibacterial and antimycotic effects. Most often, for rosacea, not one, but several creams with different effects are used. The selection of creams is carried out gradually, taking into account the skin reaction. It is most difficult to choose a cream for patients with a history of long-term use of corticosteroid drugs.
B. Prescribing adequate photoprotection
Proper protection from excess UV rays is an important part of caring for the skin of a patient with rosacea. For such patients, developing a healthy attitude towards tanning is of great importance. On sunny days, whenever possible, patients should be advised to observe the following rules:
- be in the open sun and sunbathe in the morning and evening hours, at this time ultraviolet radiation acts more gently;
- during high sun periods, wear relatively closed clothing, a hat and sunglasses with a UV filter and wide temples;
- Apply sunscreen with chemical and mechanical filters to exposed skin. You need to reapply the cream every 4 hours, as well as after swimming;
- After too long exposure to the sun in the evening, apply restorative products with vitamins C, group B, aloe extract, whey, etc.
If the patient has received a sunburn, then procedures according to protocols developed for post-peeling skin restoration will be useful for complete skin restoration.
D. Prescribing procedures to correct a cosmetic defect and restore skin quality
There are currently no generally accepted standards for cosmetology care. To develop full-fledged standards that will be truly useful, and will not become a means of censorship and limiting the capabilities of specialists, a lot of work over many years is required to collect statistics and conduct large-scale studies to assess the effectiveness, safety and economic feasibility of existing methods of influence. We are now at the stage of gaining experience and are looking for ways to optimize the combination of various treatment and prevention methods. Therefore, many specialists have their own approach to prescribing cosmetic procedures for rosacea.
5 AUTHOR'S RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE USE OF COSMETIC PROCEDURES FOR ROSACEA
1.Procedures with combined peelings and serums. At first glance, the idea of using peelings for rosacea seems strange and illogical, since they cause blood flow, damage the epidermis, increase sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, that is, they can worsen the course of the disease. Classic contraindications to peeling are inflammatory skin diseases (rosacea, in particular). However, this limitation applies to peels containing only acids and having mainly an exfoliating effect. The composition of peeling serums, along with exfoliating components, includes ingredients with restorative, stimulating, anti-inflammatory effects. Exfoliating components, acting primarily on the stratum corneum, cause the process of renewal of the epidermis and facilitate the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin. Natural extracts of fruit acids are used as exfoliating components in peeling serums, which have minimal irritating effects. Fruit acids also help normalize keratinization during the post-peeling period. Active ingredients stimulate blood flow, microcirculation and lymphatic drainage, which leads to a reduction in swelling, and also triggers regenerative processes in the epidermis and dermis. Ingredients with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects (vitamins A and C, extracts of medicinal plants) promote the resorption of papulopustular elements and reduce the pain and severity of post-inflammatory erythema.
The least pronounced positive effect immediately after the procedure is observed in patients who have previously used corticosteroid creams and ointments. However, for such patients, procedures with peeling serums are especially indicated, since with regular use they lead to a decrease in the severity of steroid atrophy of the skin. Procedures with peeling serums can be used as monotherapy, combined with any types of traditional treatment, including antibiotic therapy and therapy isotretinoin, as well as with any types of phototherapy. An important condition is that the procedures cannot be carried out separately from full-fledged regular skin care. When we are faced with a choice of what to prescribe for this - home care or cosmetic procedures, the decision in most cases is made in favor of home care.
Many years of experience in using such peels for acne, rosacea, seborrheic and perioral dermatitis allows us to recommend procedures using them as one of the methods of choice for cosmetic care for patients with rosacea [2].
2.Procedures to restore the skin barrier.
Impaired skin barrier function may be a factor that initiates exacerbation or worsens the course of rosacea. Environmental factors (chapped air, exposure to the open sun, frost) can lead to disruption of the skin barrier. In addition, at a certain stage of treatment, there may be a violation of the skin barrier associated with the side effects of the drugs used for treatment, for example, azelaic acid can cause skin irritation, and ingestion of retinoids can cause dry skin and so-called retinoic dermatitis. In such cases, special rehabilitation procedures are used as an “ambulance”. The protocols for these treatments include the use of a gentle cleanser, a superficial whey and cheese peel, a soothing botanical lotion, a regenerating gel and a protective cream.
3. Phototherapy. In cases where the effect of capillary contraction obtained during the use of peeling serums is insufficient, phototherapy is performed using broadband light sources (IPL) or laser radiation. These methods are used mainly in the autumn-winter period against the background of adequate photoprotection and in combination with procedures to restore the skin barrier.
6 CONCLUSIONS
1. Cosmetologists are able to provide meaningful assistance to patients with rosacea.
2. Cosmetological methods can be used as monotherapy or as part of a complex treatment of rosacea and are especially indicated for patients with severe cosmetic defects, with accompanying age-related changes and steroid-induced skin atrophy.
3. The algorithm for managing a patient with rosacea by a cosmetologist includes reasonable lifestyle correction, selection of necessary products for regular skin care, provision of adequate photoprotection and professional procedures.
4. It seems promising to study the mechanism of action of cosmetological methods, as well as the effectiveness, safety and economic feasibility of their use.
22.09.2010
DIY azelaic acid cream - recipes
Azelaic acid can also be used at home.
You can save money on salon treatments and achieve the same results at home.
You can buy magic acid without any prescription at the pharmacy, prepare the composition correctly and enjoy the result in the form of clean, fresh, smooth skin.
Of course, it is better to buy a ready-made cream, but it can be expensive, and there are a lot of counterfeits on the cosmetic market, so it may be easier and more reliable for someone to make their own cream from proven ingredients. What you will need for this :
- Azelaic acid in powder form.
- Sucrose.
- Microkil. This is a special preservative that will extend the life of the prepared cream.
- Jojoba oil. If you can’t find it, you can use olive or rosemary.
- Water.
Cooking process:
- Mix 16.5 ml of water with 1.5 ml of azelaic acid. It is advisable to do this in a clean glass container. Do not forget that acid does not dissolve well in water, so you need to stir actively, practically whipping the composition.
- After the acid has dissolved, add 1.5 ml of sucrose. Mix everything.
- In another container (also glass), pour 7 ml of oil, and both containers should be heated in a water bath.
- When the sucrose dissolves, mix both compositions until smooth.
- At the end of cooking, add a drop of Mikrokil.
That's it, your homemade cream is ready. It can be used daily. And after about a couple of months, you will already notice a significant improvement in the condition of your skin - it will quickly get rid of acne and blackheads.
Watch a video on using acid
Treatment at home
Before starting self-treatment, you should understand that using one or another method will not always achieve the desired result, since everything depends on the characteristics of the body. If using a certain method the situation does not improve within three to four days, it means that the chosen treatment method is not suitable and you need to look for another. Before applying therapeutic masks, it is necessary to cleanse the skin of impurities using tonic or mild soap.
To treat rosacea various masks to relieve redness, itching and even out skin texture:
- cucumber mask. Grate a fresh cucumber and apply the paste on your face in a thin layer. After half an hour, remove the remaining mask with a napkin and wash with cool water. The first result can be seen after a month if you use the mask daily;
- apple mask Grate the apple on a fine grater, put the resulting paste on your face, and after 15 minutes wash your face. This mask can also be done every day;
- oatmeal mask. It is enough to mix a couple of tablespoons of ground oatmeal with a small amount of water and apply to the skin for 20 minutes, then wash;
- banana mask. Soften one banana and apply on your face for a couple of hours, then wash with warm water;
- natural apple cider vinegar helps treat acne. It is enough to moisten a cotton pad with it and wipe the problem areas (a slight burning sensation may be felt during the process);
- aloe juice perfectly eliminates irritation; just chop up a leaf of the plant, apply the paste on your face and, after it dries completely, wash off the residue with warm water;
- Cinnamon honey also helps improve skin condition. Add a little cinnamon powder to liquid honey and apply the mixture on your face for an hour, then wash with warm water;
- Olive oil does not clog pores and helps cleanse the skin; you can lubricate your face with it several times a day and leave until completely absorbed;
- tea tree oil perfectly heals acne; just apply one drop of the product to the pimple with a cotton swab, it will quickly dry out and heal;
- A herbal mask made from turmeric and coriander gives good results in the treatment of rosacea. Mix a couple of teaspoons of turmeric with four teaspoons of coriander, add a couple of tablespoons of milk and apply on your face for 10 minutes. This mask can be done twice a day.
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Reviews
Angelina, 25 years old: “Since adolescence, I suffered from acne and acne. Thus, periodically being treated with various drugs, she lived to be 25 years old. And just recently I had an appointment with a cosmetologist who advised me to use a cream with azelaic acid. I bought it and started using it, not really hoping for a miracle. But it happened. After about two months, improvement was clearly noticeable. All my acquaintances and friends saw this. And after 4 months there was no trace of acne left. Now six months have passed since the start of treatment, I have no acne, I have completed the full course and am very pleased. I recommend it to everyone, the product really helps.”
Lyubov, 38 years old: “My problem is skin pigmentation. After twenty years, the skin began to darken in places, and with age the problem only intensified. I tried a lot of products, bought cosmetics both here and abroad, but I didn’t feel much effect. On the advice of a friend, I purchased a product with azelaic acid. And after a while I saw that the pigmented skin was becoming lighter. I continued the treatment, and now, after three months, the pigmented areas are almost invisible. I haven’t achieved this effect even with the most branded and expensive brands. That's why I recommend it to everyone. Use this remedy and become beautiful and luxurious women.”
Azelaic acid is currently the only non-hormonal drug that has antiandrogenic activity. Scientists have not yet identified such a combination in any other substance. Therefore, we can rightfully consider azelaic acid a unique product for external use. Recipes for steam facials at home are here. Reviews of the anti-acne salicylic acid shaker here.